The Build – Part 6
Step 6 involves assembling the rear suspension. The build is very similar to the Step 3 (the front suspension), but thankfully has a few less steps. Lets get to it.
Build Notes:
You will be building a left and right side of the suspension, however I will only be showing one side of the build.
We start off the build with the CVDs. Put a bit of black grease on the cross joint and push it through the axle as shown. A set screw threads into the cross joint, but only from one direction (or the open end). Make sure you insert the cross joint with the ‘closed end’ first. This will avoid getting any grease on the threads.
Apply a liberal amount of black grease on the axle ‘ball’ and insert it into the axle. Take your cross pin and insert it as shown. Make sure to line up the flat spot with the ‘open end’ of the cross joint.
Apply a dab of threadlock onto the set screw and insert it as shown. Make sure the set screw contacts the flat spot of the cross pin. Build two of these.
Press the two bearings into the rear hub carrier.
Take one of the suspension arms and attach the hub carrier as shown. Note the direction of the suspension arm.
Attach an arm brace to both the rear of the assembled gearbox…
…and the front. Notice the front brace is slightly different than the rear one. Don’t get these mixed up.
Assemble the camber links per the instructions.
Slide the CVD into the hub carrier as shown…
…then slide the arm between the arm braces and slide the long hinge pin in place. If the arm does not slide in smoothly, loosen the arm mount brace screws 1/4 turn and try again. You want the arm to slide in but still have a somewhat tight fit.
Add a bit of black grease to the ball of the CVD…
…and feed it into the diff outdrive. Take one of the camber links and slide it into position on the shock tower. Insert a camber pins to lock the camber link into place…
…followed by a 2.5x4mm screw. This screw keeps the camber pin in place.
Swing the camber link into place and secure in the hub carrier.
Press a pair of locknuts into the top of the gearbox case. Make sure they are seated all the way down. Take the rear bumper brace and feed it into the two holes in the shock tower.
Secure with the pair of plastic c-clips.
Attach the plastic mount to the metal skid-plate brace. Not the direction of the mount.
Attach the metal skid-place brace to the bottom of the gearbox. The plastic mount (you attached in Step 100) should be towards the front of the gearbox.
Locate the ‘box’ on the plastic skid plate. Insert the tab on the rear of the metal skid-plate into the box as shown…
…and press the gearbox down and into place. The hinge pins should drop into the grooves in the plastic skid plate. You may need to slide the pins slightly forward or back to make them fit.
Secure the plastic skid plate to the gearbox with the 4 screws.
Swing the bumper brace into place and secure to the rear bumper with the 3x18mm screws.
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!