The Build – Part 5
The servo assembly is a bit tricky and requires some additional love. I thought I’d make this it’s own step.
Build Notes:
You will be highly modifing the case on your servo. If you don’t want to do this, use a inexpensive servo.
There are other servo savers out there you can use, like one from Kimbrough Racing Products. These are excellent replacements if you are interested in swapping out the stock one.
For steering duties I’ll be strapping in Savox’s SC1258TG servo. This bad johnny boasts a stellar .08 60 degree transit speed with over 165 oz of torque. Maybe a bit overkill, but this is a Formula 1 car. Unfortunately, you will need to maim your high-end servo to fit into the F104X1. Start by sheering off the mounting ears on both sides of the servo. You can then use a dremel (or similar) and grind the plastic flat. Both sided will need to be as flat as possible. Install the correct servo horn (this will depend on your servo) and the three servo saver springs. These can be a little difficult to get on so be patient. Once the horn and springs are installed, slide the assembled aluminum servo horn into place, attach the servo saver cap and add the screw. At this time, you will want to get all of your electronics together to verify everything is working properly. It would suck to install it all and find out something isn’t working. This will also give you a chance to make sure your servo is properly centered (actually, the main reason we are doing this now). Once you’ve verified your servo is properly centered, attach the servo mounts with a small square of double-sided tape. To this on a flat surface so you can mske sure the servo and mounts all line up properly at the bottom. Place the servo assembly onto the chassis and attach with the two forward screws. Make sure the backmost holes in the servo mounts line up with the holes in the chassis. You can test fit with the long 3x35mm screws. Part 6 – Installing the top deck.
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