The Build – Part 2
The front suspension of the Factory Team T4.2 is similar to the rest of the B/T series; dual bellcrank, long, ‘gull-wing’ suspension arms and adjustable camber, caster, toe and roll centers. The FT T4.2 does away with the older bearing-on-axle front hubs and instead moves to the more acceptable, clamping-style hexes.
Build Notes:
The caster and steering blocks are directional to pay attention as to which side you are mounting them. The steering blocks are marked with a R and L, however the caster blocks are not.
You’ll need thread-locking material during this step as well.
The first step is to build a pair of front steering knuckles. Slide one of the Factory Team aluminum washers onto a silver ballstud and attach it to the knuckles. Secure it on the bottom with an aluminum locknut. The locknut recesses into the bottom of the knuckle, so be sure it is seated correctly before tightening it down. Build 2 of these. Slide one of the 5/16×3/8 bearings all the way onto the front axle. Take the 3/16 C-Clip and snap it into the groove on the axle as shown. It may take a bit of force, so I would suggest using a pair of needlenose pliers to seat it all the way into the groove. Build 2 of these. Slide the axle assembly into the knuckle from the back side as shown. Build 2 of these. Press the 2nd 3/16×3/8 bearing into the knuckle. Again, using a pair of needlenose pliers (or even channel-locks), press the univeral roll pin through the hole in the front axle. You’ll want to center it to the axle as shown. Slide the FT, 12mm aluminum clamping hex onto the axle and key it to the univeral roll pin. It should slide onto the axle all the way to the bearing. If not, you might need to re-center the univeral roll pin. Once seated, insert the 2-56×3/16 screw into the clamping hex and tighten. Insert a black ballend into the caster block and secure with the aluminum locknut. Notice the direction (and orientation) of the caster block. The one shown is the left side. Build 2 of these. Team Associated supplies 2 different length hinge pins for the outer area of the front end of the Factory Team T4.2; a short and a long. The short one is used as the kingpin, the longer one is used as the hinge pin. Grab the 2 shorter ones for the next step. Take the left caster block we built in step 14 as well as the left steering block (marked with the L) and assemble as shown. Use the shorter kingpin and feed it up through the caster and steering block. It should seat with the bottom of the kingpin sitting flush with the bottom of the caster block. Secure in place with the 2-56×1/8 screw. Build both sides… …and match your assemblies up with this picture. Shown is the right side (up top) and the left side (lower right). Grab your left steering assembly, the longer hinge pin, the spacer and the left suspension arm and assemble as shown. Make sure you attach the suspension arm with the ‘kink’ up as shown. Build both sides. Once assembled, the hinge pin should sit flush with the outside of the arm. Secure in place with the 2-56×3/18 screw. Take both front suspension assemblies and attach them to the front bulkhead with the longest hinge pins as shown. Again, makes sure the arms are ‘kinked’ up and the steering ball link is to the rear of the car. Attach the Factory Team aluminum front hinge pin brace and secure with the 2 2-56×5/16 screws. At this time, you’ll want to make sure the front arms swing up and down without binding. Flip the T4.2 over and attach the front bumper as shown. Easy step. Grab the front shock tower and feed the two 4-40×3/4 screws into the upper shock mounting holes (use the center hole per the instructions). Apply a small drop of blue thread-locker and screw on the Factory Team aluminum shock bushings. Notice, where I’m holding the tower, you see the camber link pads. This will help you orientate which side of the tower the screws go through. Slide a 2mm Factory Team aluminum washers onto the silver ballstuds and screw them into the inner hole on the camber link pad as shown. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or you will strip out the plastic. Snug is fine. Attach the body mounts to the front tower as shown… …and attach the tower to the front bulkhead of the T4.2 Again, no need to overtighten. A tick past snug is fine. Other than shocks, the turnbuckles are one of my least favorite things to build. Just make sure you use the 2.65″ turnbuckles (the shorter ones) for the camber and the 2.8″ turnbuckles (the longer ones) for the steering. The lengths that AE has posted in the manual (48.75mm for the camber and 52.75mm for the steering) are a good starting point. Also, keep an eye on the ‘notch’ on the center part of the turnbuckle. You’ll want to build the turnbuckles so that the notch will be ‘pointing’ the same direction. Build 2 of each but keep them separated. Snap the 2 steering turnbuckles (the longers ones) in place as shown. Make sure the ‘notch’ is pointing the same direction. Snap the 2 camber turnbuckles (the shorter ones) in place as shown. Make sure the ‘notch’ is pointing the same direction as the steering turnbuckles. Part 3 – Assembling the transmission.
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