The Build – Part 5
The shocks are up next, and Team Associated is well known for having some of the best shocks in the industry. The Factory Team T4.2 comes with the A-Team’s 12mm Big Bore shocks complete with bottom load seals and bleeder caps. You can’t get much better than this in 1/10th scale!
Build Notes:
You will be filling the shocks with shock fluid and, of course, bleeding them so it is suggested that you have some paper towels handy for clean up.
The shock pistons have a small number molded into them (1.6, 1.7 etc), but they are extremely hard to see. To make them a little easier, I used a Sharpie to color the area over the number. For this build, I’ll be using the stock shock pistons per the manual (1.6 front, 1.7 rear). Sorry for the blurry pic.
Snap an e-clip into the lower groove on the shock shaft followed by the shock piston. Secure with the 2nd e-clip. Make sure you put the 1.6 pistons on the shorter shafts and the 1.7 pistons on the longer shafts.
We will be putting down-travel limiters on the shafts, 4 on each front shaft and 2 on each rear shaft.
Grab your shock bodies and slide one of the small, black o-rings over the shock seal opening as shown. As you can see, we’ve prepped the pieces to install in the shock seal area.
Time to build the lower seals. I like to put them on a tool so that I can lube up the parts without making too much of a mess. Take any driver (preferably one that is smaller than the holes in the parts) and start by installing a shock hat bushing (make sure the lip is facing INTO the shock body) followed by ared o-ring, shock spacer, red o-ring and then another shock hat bushing (make sure, with this one, the lip is facing AWAY from the shock body). Apply a drop of two of shock oil and make sure all the parts are well lubricated.
Insert the parts into the lower area of the shock and make sure they all seat properly. Attach the lower shock cap, making sure to align the hole in the cap with the lip on the shock hat bushing. Tighten all the way down.
Put an additional drop of shock oil on the threads of the shaft. Yes, another blurry pic…but at least the shock body is in focus.
Slide the shock shaft assembly into the body (make sure you put the shorter, front shafts into the shorter, front shock bodies) and slide it down through the seal assembly. The shock oil allows the shaft’s threads to pass through the seals without tearing them. Now install a shock eyelet on each of the 4 shocks, screwing them on to the top of the threads. Be careful when holding the shock shaft that you don’t scratch it when installing the eyelet. I use a pair of STRC’s shock holding pliers. Great tool; holds tight, doesn’t scratch the shock shaft.
Pop one of the Factory Team pivot balls into each of the eyelets. I suggest doing this on a solid surface…it just makes it easier. I used the side of my needlenose pliers.
Wrap one of the larger o-rings onto the top of each shock as shown.
Pull the shaft down (so the piston sits at the bottom of the shock) and fill it with oil to ALMOST the top. Slide the shock shaft up and down so the oil can filter through the piston and fill up the bottom of the shock (under the piston). Doing this, you will see the air bubbles rise to the top. You want to get rid of all of these bubbles.
Place your shocks in a shock stand for about 5 minutes. This will allow all the air bubbles to rise to the top. I use on of Team Fast Eddy’s shock stands to hold mine. This shock stand has holes to fit 1/10th, 1/8th and 1/5th scale shocks. Once the bubbles are gone, refill the shocks to the top.
GO WASH YOUR HANDS WITH SOAP! I can’t emphasize this enough. You will be inserting the other larger o-rings into the grooves of the shock collars and if your hands have oil on them, it can make this a very frustrating task. It takes 20 seconds…go do it. I’ll wait.
Now that you have clean hands (and your shock collars are built), we’ll move on. Take one of the 2x4mm screws, slide a shock cap o-ring onto it and feed it into the shock cap hole. Tighten down a bit, but not all the way. Build 4 caps.
Take your shock cap and put a drop or two of shock oil into it. Now, flip it over and screw it down onto the shock. Be extremely careful that the black o-ring (on the top part of the shock body) fits UNDER the shock cap when you tighten it down. If it ‘squeezes’ out the side of the cap, the assembly won’t seal and you’ll have a leaky shock. Build 4 shocks.
Now loosen up the shock cap screw and slowly push the shock shaft up. You’ll see some oil come out of the shock cap hole. When the shaft is to the top, tighten the shock cap screw. Do not overtighten as you need the red o-ring to seal the hole. Do this to all 4 shocks.
Another view of your sealed shock cap.
Once the caps are on and secure, thread the shock collars onto all 4 shocks…
…followed by a spring and the lower spring retainer cup. Make sure you put the shorter springs on the front shocks and the longer springs on the rear shocks.
Attach the top of the front shocks to the tower and secure with the shock mount nut. Do not overtighen; you want the shock to have a little bit of wiggle.
Slide the lower part of the front shock into the gap in the front suspension arm. Attach (in the outside hole) with the 4-40 screws. Do this on both sides (and make sure both lower mounting positions are in the same hole).
Attach the top of the rear shocks to the tower like you did with the fronts.
Using the 4-40 screw, attach the bottom of the shocks to the rear suspension arms. Make sure both sides use the inside mounting hole.
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!