The Build – Part 6
The rear suspension is a little time consuming but not hard at all. Take your time, don’t forget your loctite and grease and you’ll be good to go.
Build Notes:
The rear hub carrier interferes with the rear suspension arm. Check the step below to remedy this.
Open your GG parts bag. This bag contains the FT upgrades; anti-roll bars, blue aluminum D-arm mount and the lightweight outdrives.
Build the rear CVA’s like exactly how you built the front ones. Remember to use a liberal amount of grease.
Insert the bearings into the rear hub carrier. Make sure they site flush in the carrier.
Team Tip: There is a slight interference issue with the rear arms and hub carrier. As is, the rear does not extend to full droop. Trim off a little bit of the hub carrier tab to fix this. Updated arms are on the way from AE.
Insert your CVA’s into the rear hub carriers. Don’t forget the bearing shields.
Install the wheel hexes. Use a little loctite on the screw to secure it in place.
After you remove them from the parts tree, trim any remaining flashing off of the suspension arms.
Install the droop screws into the suspension arms. Note the specialty screws used and the direction they insert into the arm.
Assemble the anti-roll bar links…
…and attach them to the suspension arms. Note the direction of the upper pivot ball. The bigger end should be towards the outside of the arm.
Attach the mud guard. These are direction so pay attention that you are installing them on the correct sides.
Again, thanks AE for pre-building these. My fingers thank you even more.
Attach the turnbuckles to the hub carrier. Note the orientation of the turnbuckles…they are directional.
Attach the hub carrier to the rear suspension arm. Note the direction. For the starting setup, insert the two red spacers towards the rear of the arm, or on the side away from the mud guard.
Attach the arms to the rear bulkhead. The hinge-pin inserts are a #1 dot so they aren’t directional.
The two 50mm screws lock the rear arm mount into place. At this time, check to make sure your suspension arms have free movement. If they don’t, disassemble and find the issue. They need to have free movement.
Slide the CVA bone into the diff outdrive and screw the turnbuckle to the shock tower.
Slide the anti-roll bar into the pivot balls in the arm and set screw into place. Use a dab of loctite to prevent them from vibrating out. Next, attach the anti-roll bar mount.
Assemble the rear wing…
…and attach it to the rear bulkhead. Put a dab of grease on the locknuts if they don’t stay in place while assembling.
Attach the through-screw to secure the wing in place. Insert the pair of set screws, tightening down until they touch the anti-roll bar, then back off 1/2 turn. All you want to do is take up the slack in the mount, not prevent movement.
Place the gearbox gasket onto the chassis. Apply a little grease to hold it in place. A little dab will do ya.
Attach the rear suspension to the chassis with the 4 12mm screws. Swing the chassis brace down and secure it with the 18mm screw. Wah-lah, rear suspension done!
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!