The Build – Part 8
The Factory Team RC8.2 comes with a killer set of threaded shocks. They build easily and require very little maintenance unless, of course, you prefer to rebuild after every race day.
Build Notes:
One of the most crucial tuning items on your car, they can also be the messiest to build. Have a nice, uncluttered workspace with plenty of rags for cleanup.
The front and rear shocks are different length. Separate your parts before building to make sure you don’t cross-build them.
Your HH bag contains springs, oil, bladders, o-rings and shock boots. Open up and set aside Your H bag contains all the rest of the shock goodies. Separate the short front shock parts with the longer rear shock parts so you don’t get them confused during the build. Using the supplied shock tool, load up a pair of o-rings and spacer. Saturate this assembly with the shock oil provided. Thread the small o-ring onto the bottom of the shock body. Insert this lubed assembly into the bottom of the shock body and screw on the lower shock cap. Build 4 shocks. Using the other supplied shock tool, build the 4 shock shafts…washer, piston, washer, nut. The pistons are tapered so make sure they are all facing the right direction! Slide the completed shock shaft assembly into the shock bodies. Feed the threaded part of the shaft carefully through the o-ring section. Don’t force as you might tear an o-ring. Pay attention that the shorter shafts go into the shorter bodies; longer shafts go into the longer bodies. Install the shock boots; shorter onto the shorter shafts, longer ones on the longer shafts. Feed the eyelets onto the shock shafts. Check to make sure both front shocks and both rear shocks are the same length. Adjust the eyelets until they are. Fill the shocks up with oil. Push the shock shaft up and down SLOWLY to remove air bubbles that are under the piston. Let the shocks sit for a few to allow the bubbles to rise to the top. A shock building stand is most helpful at this stage. I use the Team Fast Eddy Shock Stand. I like this one mostly because I can use it for 1/10th – 1/5th scale shocks! Insert the bladder into the shock cap. Make sure it is seated as far down as it will go. Be careful not to puncture it. To help reduce the mess, wrap a paper towel around the shock body. Screw the cap onto the shock. Any excess oil will be squeezed out through the small hole in the cap. Your paper towel should catch this and prevent it from dripping all over the place. WASH YOUR HANDS WITH SOAP AND WATER! Now, feed the larger o-ring into the shock collar. If you had any oil on your fingers from the last step, it will make it 100x harder to get the o-ring into the collar. Slippery fingers are no fun here. Screw the collars onto the shocks. Go ahead and feed them all the way to the top. BOOM! Shocks built. Slide the springs on followed by the lower spring retainer. Take your front shocks and pop the shock rod ball end into the eyelets. Insert the shock bushing into the cap. Pay attention which side you insert it into. It should go into the ‘closed’ side, not the ‘open’ side. Slide the front shock into the arm and feed the shock mount pin into place. Attach the top of the front shock to the tower, bushing first, and secure it with the nut. The nut should recess into the ‘open’ side of the shock. Feed your 3x12mm screw into the arm as shown. This secures the shock mount pin from sliding out. Tighten it all the way down. Take your rear shocks and pop the shock rod ball end into the eyelets. Insert the shock bushing into the cap. Pay attention which side you insert it into. It should go into the ‘closed’ side, not the ‘open’ side. Slide the rear shock into the arm and feed the shock mount pin into place. Attach the top of the rear shock to the tower, bushing first, and secure it with the nut. The nut should recess into the ‘open’ side of the shock. Feed your 3x12mm screw into the arm as shown. This secures the shock mount pin from sliding out. Tighten it all the way down. Part 9 – Assembling the radio tray.
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