The Build – Part 11
Up next is the front steering knuckles. AE has updated their caster blocks with adjustment inserts. These inserts can be changed to allow different degrees of caster. The rest of this step should be pretty simple, especially since we already built the CVA’s.
Build Notes:
The front caster block inserts are a press-fit. Just in case, I would suggest applying a VERY small dab of CA glue to keep them in place. Use as little glue as possible so you can still take them apart for tuning purposes.
Start this step by inserting the 5mm ballstud into the holes as shown. Do not overtighten. Next, press the bearings into the steering blocks. Don’t forget to install the crush tube inbetween the bearings.
You’ll need to decide at this point how much caster you’d like to run. We’ll assume you’re going to fly with the 4 deg insert to start. Press the 4 deg inserts into the caster blocks, ensuring that the molded number is at the top of the insert (see manual).
Take your already-assembled CVA’s and insert them into the assembled steering blocks.
Drop the caster block bushings into the caster blocks as shown. If you’re a pro-builder, you should be able to this and the next step without any aids. If not, add a dab of black grease to help keep the bushings in place.
Take the CVA and feed it through the caster block. Slide the steering block into place and secure with the 8mm ballstud (on top) and 3x8mm button head (on the bottom). Snug them down; do NOT over tighten. Rotate the steering block to make sure there is not binding. If there is, loosen both screws 1/16th and try again. Once the steering block moves freely, you’re good to go.
Slide one axle shim into place followed by the axle pin.
Insert the 2x5mm screw into the clamping wheel hex. Slide the hex onto the axle and over the axle pin. Tighten down the 2x5mm screw. Do not overtighten!
Take your assembled caster/steering block and slide it into the front arms as shown. Press the outer hinge pin into place through the arm and caster/steering block assembly.
Capture the hinge pin with the 2x4mm button head. Line up the CVA blade with the front diff outdrive and slide into place.
Grab your assembled steering links and snap them into place. Make sure the notch on the turnbuckle is closest to the outside of the car.
Double check that your CVA blade is inserted into the diff outdrive. Grab your assembled camber links and snap them into place. Make sure the notch on the turnbuckles is closest to the outside of the car.
Move the suspension arm up and down. It should move up freely and drop EASILY under its own weight. If it doesn’t, take a small pair of needlenose pliers and ‘pinch’ the camber link ball cups. This should elongate the cups slightly to allow the suspension to move easily.
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!