The Build – Part 12
In this step we will be building the rear hubs. AE has incorporated the same insert-style for rear toe as the did for the front steering knuckles.
Build Notes:
The rear hub inserts are a press-fit. Just in case, I would suggest applying a VERY small dab of CA glue to keep them in place. Use as little glue as possible so you can still take them apart for tuning purposes.
Decide what rear toe you want to run and clip those inserts off the parts tree. Press-fit the inserts into the rear hubs, making sure the number is to the outside of the hub. We will be using the 0 deg hub. If you are building with a different deg hub, make sure you keep the left and right separated.
Screw the 8mm ballstud into the inner hole on the top of the hub. Don’t forget to include the 2mm spacer. Do not overtighten
Press 2 bearings into the rear hub. The silver crush tube should go between them. Now take the remaining 2 CVA’s and slide them into place as shown.
Slide the axle shim in place and insert the axle pin through the hole in the axle.
Thread the 2x5mm screw into the wheel hex but do not tighten down. Slide the wheel hex onto the axle and over the axle pin. Tighten down the 2x5mm screw.
Take one of your hub assemblies and place it as shown, feeding the outer hinge pin in place to secure. Since we used 0 deg hubs, both the left and right hub assemblies are virtually the same. If you used a different degree, make sure you assemble the right hub to the right side of the car and the left to the left.
Capture the hinge pin with the 2x4mm screw. Do not overtighten.
Rotate your hub assembly up and down to make sure the movement is free. If not, you might have to re-check your hub inserts to make sure they have been pushed in all the way. Now rotate the hub up and insert the CVA blade into the outdrive.
Snap the rear camber turnbuckle into place. Make sure the turnbuckle notches are matched up to the front camber notches. Move the suspension up and down again. It should move freely and drop easily under its own weight. If not, gently pinch the turnbuckles eyelets and try again.
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!