The Build – Part 8
While the steering setup on the TC6.1 is similar to other cars, the way the Ackermann is adjusted is all new. It’s very easy to adjust and doesn’t require you to disassemble anything. Oh, and it goes together quite easily.
Build Notes:
Be very careful when installing the C-clip on the bottom of the servo saver assembly. It’s small and will *boing* a long way if you don’t take care. Oh, and you’ll probably never find it again.
Take the 7mm bellcrank arm and install the two short ballstuds into it. The serrated side of the arm should face up.
Take the upper bellcrank, align the serrated side with the serrated side of the lower bellcrank and secure with the 3x8mm screw. Align the notches on the side so that you will be using the ‘B’ setting. Yes, I know my picture shows the ‘C’ setting. I’m actually trying a different setup to start with.
Insert a short ballstud into the servo saver arm as shown.
Pre-compress the servo saver spring using a pair of pliers (or your fingers if you’re a real man!). Slide the bellcrank tube down through the servo saver arm and then through the bellcrank assembly. Align the notches in those two pieces so they sit as shown in the manual. Slide the spring over the bellcrank tube followed by the servo saver nut. Screw the nut down. We’ll adjust it in a second.
Press a bearing into each end of the bellcrank tube…
…and then insert the steering post. Clip the C-clip into the notch on the steering post. Again, be careful not to ‘fling’ the C-clip across the room!
Adjust the servo saver nut until there is a .5mm gap as shown in the instruction manual. Get as close as possible if you don’t have a way to measure it. Now press the steering post into the post insert. Either hole will be fine as this point.
Rotate the steering bellcrank post insert so that the ‘open’ hole is towards the front of the chassis. Press the insert into the cavity as shown. Your assembly might not stay in place if you move the car around so, if you choose to remove the steering assembly (or it falls out), just remember that the ‘open’ hole is towards the front.
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!