The final assembly has us installing the top deck, bumper, battery holders and the electronics.
Ok, on to the build!
The TRF419XR allows several different options at this point; different center braces, weights, battery holders, etc. These spare parts are in a separate bag, so don’t forget to pull them out to see the options.
One thing to note – the stock spur gear that comes with the TRF419XR is not suitable for stock class racing. Top top it off, the spur gear mounting setup is a little odd as well, meaning not just any spur gear will work. I found that the Panaracer-Xenon spur gears work the best.
Since your electronics will probably not match what I have, I left the install of these out of the build. It’s pretty straightforward, however, so you shouldn’t have a problem installing yours.
The first step is to assemble the servo horn and attach it to the servo. You can use the included servo saver setup or, like I did, attach a standard horn. I’m not to keen on the Tamiya servo savers – they seem to flex a bit too much for me.
Assemble the servo mount. Blue threadlock is suggested here.
Attach the servo to the mount. Blue threadlock is suggested here as well.
Attach the mount to the chassis. You’ll notice it’s only attached on one side – this is an example of a floating servo mount. This helps retain the correct tweak on both sides of the car. Don’t forget to pop the drag link onto the servo horn.
Here is where you’ll have some options; I went with the carbon brace as a starting point. I also attached the weight in the center, however I chose to do it after I had already built the car. (See the end of the manual for chassis rigidity options).
Attach the motor. I will be running in the 17.5T class but, since my motor hadn’t arrived at the time of the build, I dropped a R1 Wurks 10.5T in for show.
Assemble the belt tensioner.
Attach the tensioner assembly to the top deck.
Attach the top deck. I would NOT recommend using blue threadlock on these screws.
Attach the battery pad. It’s a bit long so I cut it down a little to fit.
Slip a wheel spacer onto the axle followed by the serrated nut. The spacers can be left off to help tune the width of your TRF419XR.
Attach the rear body posts.
Attach the front body posts to the front bumper.
Attach the front bumper assembly to the chassis.
Slide the foam bumper into place, then the carbon bumper mount. Secure with the 2 8mm screws.
Install the battery bumper. This can be adjusted (more or less spacers) to move the battery in or out.
Assemble the 2 battery holders. These additional screws can be adjusted (more or less spacers) to move the battery in or out or front to back.
Attach the battery holders to the chassis.
And, just like that, you have a completed Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car! Now install your electronics, mount that body and get to some racing!
Tekno ET410 Truggy Build – Opening Page
Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 1 – Chassis/ Bulkheads
Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 2 – Rear Differential
Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 3 – Driveline
Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 4 – Steering
Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 5 – Suspension
Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 6 – Anti-Roll Bars
Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 7 – Shocks
Tamiya TRF419XR Touring Car Build – Part 8 – Final Assembly