The Build – Part 9
We’ll be building the shocks in Part 9 of the Team Associated B44.3 build. The buggy uses the A-Team’s awesome V2 12mm Big Bore aluminum shocks which feature 3mm shafts and molded caps with bleed screws. These shocks are a breeze to build and provide excellent damping on the track.
Build Notes:
First and foremost, we’ll be dealing with shock fluid so have some rags handy to clean up any extra oil that might leak or bleed out of the shocks.
Before we start the build, let’s get aquainted with the parts so you don’t mix things up. Here you’ll see the shock bodies and the shafts. Short up front, long out back.
The shocks come with a few different hole-sized pistons as well. I take a Sharpie and color over the numbers so I can see them better, both in and out of the shocks.
Now that we’ve identified the parts, let’s start putting the shocks together. Snap an e-clip into the lower groove on the shaft, followed by the piston (1.5 in the front, 1.7 in the rear) and then the other e-clip. Slide a .030 washer onto the shaft of each shock as well.
Flex a 12mm o-ring over the top of the shock opening and a VCS3 o-ring over the lower shock opening.
Fit the other 12mm o-rings into the threaded collar. The instructions mention this step a little later, but I like to do it early before I get shock fluid on my fingers (making it harder to deal with the o-ring).
Assemble the bottom cartridge area of the shock; in this order – shock hat bushing, o-ring, shock spacer, o-ring, bottom shock hat bushing and then the bottom shock cap. Make sure both hat bushings are facing away from the o-rings.
Put a drop of shock fluid on the shaft threads and install. Make sure you’re putting a front shaft (short) into a front shock body (short); longer shaft (rear) into the longer body (rear).
Thread the shock eyelet onto the shaft and pop the FT pivot balls into place. Make the gap between the shock eyelet and the bottom shock cap equal (the fronts the same, the rears the same).
Fill the shocks with oil. You’ll want to SLOWLY move the shock shafts up and down to get any air bubbles out from under the piston. Set the shocks in a stand (like this Duratrax one) and let all the bubbles rise to the top.
Pre-thread the 2-56 screw into the shock cap, then remove. Screw the shock cap onto the shock. Compressing the shock (as shown) will cause any excess oil to leak out of the cap. When the shock is completely compressed, thread the 2-56 screw back into place. Clean off any oil that leaked out of the shocks.
The B44.3 comes with red front springs (3.90lb) and green rears (2.00lb).
It also comes with 3 different offsets of lower spring retainers (from left to right – 9mm, 5mm, 0mm). We’ll be using the 5mm retainers all the way around.
Thread the upper collar onto the shock followed by the spring and lower spring retainer.
Assemble the upper shock mounts using the center hole.
Attach the upper shock, using the plastic shock nut to secure it in place.
Attach the lower part of the shock to the arm, using the outside hole. Build both sides.
Use the same method in the rear, attaching the shock to the tower using the middle hole.
Same mounting to the arm, using the inner hole. Build both sides.
Big Bore shocks complete and mounted on your B44.3.
I’ve added a few parts that make shock building a little easier. Pick one up; pick them all up!
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!