Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 5 – Drivetrain

The Build – Part 5
Part 5 of the Team Associated TC7 build has us assembling the drivetrain; installation of the steering and rear hubs. We’ll also be using the turnbuckles we built earlier.

Build Notes:
While not really a build note, I would like to bring attention to the new king pin bushings Team Associated has elected to use. Prior, you were required to feed a bushing into the top and bottom caster block holes from the inside, hold them in place and, using a third hand, carefully slide the assembled steering block into place. That system has been scrapped in place of slightly longer, unflanged bushings that insert from the top. Is it better in the long run, who knows … but it makes me happy now so that’s really what counts.

When attaching the links (steering and camber), make sure the notches on them are all facing the same way. This will make it easier when it comes to making adjustments on the car.

Step 1:

Let’s start by pressing the 5x10mm bearings into the front steering blocks with the chrome crush tube in between them.

Step 2:

Slip one of the assembled CVA axles through the steering block and insert the 1/16″ pin. Slide the wheel hex onto the axle and key it to the pin, using the 1.6x5mm screw to clamp the hex into place. Attach the 5mm ballstud and 1mm shim to the outside hole (see photo). Build a left and right side version.

Step 3:

I’ll be attaching the steering blocks to the caster blocks, however before I do I have to poke a hole in the ‘web’ that forms over the set screw hole. A solid push with the tip of your driver will clear the webbing out.

Step 4:

Slide the CVA through the caster block, then line up the upper and lower holes in the caster and steering blocks. Drop one of the new (and WAY easier to use) king pin bushings into the hole and use the 10mm ballstud up top and the 3x10mm BHCS on the bottom to complete the assembly. Don’t forget to include the 1mm shim under both.

Step 5:

Slip the steering/caster block into the front suspension arm and slide the outer hinge pin through to secure. The 3x3mm set screw is inserted into the bottom of the caster block and holds the hinge pin in place. It should be snug; do not overtighten.

Step 6:

Key the CVA to the spool and snap both the front camber link and steering link into place (on both sides). Note the notches in the turnbuckles are pointed the same directions; make sure they are this way on both the right and left sides.

Step 7:

Build the rear hubs – two 5x10mm bearings, crush tubes, 8mm ballstud and 2mm shim. Install in the innermost hole.

Step 8:

Slide a CVA through the rear hub and insert the 1/16″ pin. Key the wheel hex to the pin and clamp it on.

Step 9:

Like we did in Step 3, use the tip of your driver to poke a hole through the webbing in the set screw hole.

Step 10:

Set the rear hub in place and slide the outer hinge pin through. Use the set screw to secure. Key the CVA to the rear diff and pop the rear camber links on. Make sure the notch in the rear link matches the direction of the notches in the front links.

Look at that … one step closer. On to the installing the shocks, bumper and body mounts!

Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 1 – Shocks
Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 2 – Spool and Differential
Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 3 – Suspension
Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 4 – Center Bulkhead / Top Deck
Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 5 – Drivetrain
Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 6 – Shocks, Bumpers, Body Mounts
Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 7 – Anti-Roll Bar
Team Associated TC7 Build – Part 8 – Electronics

Back to the Team Associated TC7 Build List