Team Associated RC8.2 Build – Part 11 – Engine and Fuel Tank

The Build – Part 11
Installing the engine and fuel tank are pretty easy. We will also be covering the assembly of the clutch to the engine which can be a little more detailed. Your clutch build may be different for the engine you use.

Build Notes:
The engine assembly steps are for the Reedy 121VR-ST .21 Competition Engine. Your assembly may differ slightly.

Prepping the air filter requires the use of a somewhat sticky filter oil. Have some clean-up rags handy and wash your hands with soap and water after this step.

Let’s start off by installing the zip ties to the tank lid. This will help us open the lid while the body is still on for refueling. Attach as shown…

…and cut off the excess on one of the zip ties.

Some tracks regulate the amount of fuel your tank can hold. To stay ‘legal’, install the fuel spacer into the bottom of the tank. If your track doesn’t care, leave it out.

Next, attach the fuel tank mounts to the chassis and slide a red o-ring over the top. This o-ring helps cushion the tank.

Now slide the tank into position and clip into place. Note the direction of the lid. It might seem backwards, but remember you are pulling the lid open from the zip tie. That zip ties need to protrude out of the body.

Ok, now for the fun part. Remove the air filter and all the parts associated with it. Set them out as shown. KEEP THE BAG!

Squeeze all of the air filter oil into the bag. Take the hollow portion of the air filter (the white one) and drop it into the bag.

Sponge it around really good to coat it entirely with the filter oil. The finished product should look like this.

Remove the filter from the bag and assemble the complete air filter. Notice you didn’t make too much of a mess, right? You can throw that bag out now.

Attach the assembled air filter to the air filter hose. Use one of the long zip ties included and cinch it into place.

Take your engine out and set it aside. The Reedy 121VR-ST .21 Competition Engine comes with a slew of additional items, like air restrictors, head shims, pipe springs, gaskets, etc. Each engine might be different so for this step lets just say you’ve assembled your engine and it’s ready to install.

Attach the air filter to the carburetor using another of the long zip ties included. Rotate it so that the filter is on the right side of the engine.

The flywheel is next. Slide the collet and flywheel into place. Screw on the clutch nut and tighten down. Go ahead and use your gorilla strength on this one. We want this tight!

Slide the clutch shim onto the flywheel. Drop the clutch shoes into place and attach the clutch springs. This can be a little tricky so take your time. Watch your fingers also!

Here’s a close-up of the shoes and springs attached. This should give you a better idea of how they attach.

Now the clutch bell. Install both bearings into the clutch bell and slide onto the crankshaft after the shim. Load up three more thin shims, the thick shim and the screw. Again, this step might be slightly different depending on the engine you are using.

Attach both engine mounts to the engine. Loctite the screws into place.

Remove your pipe and set the pieces aside as shown. The pipe assembly steps might vary slightly depending on the pipe system you are using. We’re rocking the Reedy EFRA approved Muffler and Header.

Attach the header gasket to the engine and slide the header into place. Secure with the long spring as shown.

Slide the gasket onto the pipe and slide the pipe into the header.

Secure with the three springs as shown.

Attach the pipe mount to the chassis. Don’t forget a dab of loctite here on the bottom screw and set screw.

Attach the engine mount spacers to the chassis. Loctite these babies also!

Slide the pipe onto the pipe mount wire and rotate the engine into place. You might need to adjust the pipe mount slightly so that there is no tension on it when the engine is located to the chassis. Screw the engine into place. Don’t forget the loctite.

Route the fuel line as instructed and snap the fuel line clips into place. Only use a little more fuel line than is necessary. Nothing is worse than a ton of fuel line in the way when trying to work on your car.

Part 12 – Body, wheels and tires.
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