The Build – Part 5
The manual has us assembling the chassis and installing the electronics in the same step but I chose to break it out into two for simplicity sake. Vaterra has given us a few cool features in the electronics install section and I felt it needed its own section.
Build Notes:
As with all builds, it’s a good idea to make sure all your electronics are working and your servo is centered prior to installing. So, take a moment, hook it up and test it.
Depending on which wheelbase option you’ve chosen, there are two ways to mount the servo. Wheelbase options WB3 and WB4 use the method we’re explaining here; wheelbase options WB1 and WB2 will use the build option on Page 46 of the manual.
The first step in the electronics build is to prep the servo for install. Attach the servo horn as shown after, of course, you did the electronics pre-test. It should be lined up straight down the servo. Flip the chassis over and mount the servo using the M3x10mm screws. Don’t forget the washers. Also, note the orientation and direction of the servo. Attach the ESC mounting plate to the extensions off the back brace. Attach the receiver box. It’s not waterproof but it doesn’t look like it would be that hard to waterproof it yourself. Make sure the antenna tube mount is to the rear. There’s quite a bit of room in the box, enough for a small receiver and a lighting control module. Since my Tekin ESC isn’t waterproof, I elected to drop it in here for a little extra protection. You’ll need to do some creative wiring to make everything fit but it’s possible. I would suggest measuring out the wires prior to soldering to the ESC to make sure they are long enough. Solder up the wires to the motor. You can run them through the wire looms on the right side of the chassis to keep things neat. The manual has you installing the floating battery tray in the next step but I chose to do it now so that I could make sure my wiring was out of the way. Feed the strap through the tray and attach the tray to the rotating points. One problem with the Ascender is the fact that the servo lead will not reach the receiver box; the distance is to great. You will need to get a servo extension of at least 9″. Once again,you can feed the lead through the looms but they are only located near the back of the chassis. To keep them from getting hung up on any rocks (or chassis bits), I zip-tied them to the chassis. You can see my locations in the picture (check out the groovy red arrows). Once you get the electronics figured out, all the leads up through the radio box opening and the antenna mounted, attach the radio box cover. I mounted the switch on the ESC tray.Now that your electronics are installed, you can insert your battery and do the final battery wiring. I used the same plug that came on my Dynamite battery.
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 1 – Transmission
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 2 – Front Axle
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 3 – Rear Axle
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 4 – Chassis
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 5 – Electronics
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 6 – Shocks
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 7 – Suspension Links
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 8 – Chassis Assembly
Vaterra Ascender K5 Blazer Build – Part 9 – Bumpers, Side Bars, Wheels/Tires, Body