The Build – Part 6
The top deck is a simple, straightforward step.
Build Notes:
The electronics mounts can be used in their stock configuration or modified to work as a battery stay. If you are using any kind of shorty LiPo pack, these can be used to hold the battery in place, eliminating the need for battery tape.
The manual has you installing the electronics mounts over the posts. Building it that way is completely fine, but a buddy of mine showed me a trick way to utilize these. With a dremel, shave off the hoops on the side shown. Don’t cut down into the channel, just smooth the side off. Put these aside for now and we’ll get back to them.
Slide the black o-rings over the rear body posts.
Install the body posts and antenna mount to the upper deck. The o-rings on the body posts help give them a little bit of float, helping to save the body in a crash as compared to a rigid body mounting system.
Attach the center shock and side damper ballends. Place a little blue loctite on the center shock mount screw…don’t forget the shim! The side damper ballend does not need loctite because it already screws into a locknut.
Attach the top deck to the chassis. If you are using the electronics mounts as the come in the kit, you will need the black o-rings. If you are going with the optional method, you can leave those off. Don’t forget to add a small dab of blue loctite on all the screws.
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!