The Build – Part 7
Time to install the blood of the B5M, the electronics. We will be installing a Futaba S9350 Digital Servo, LRP Flow WorksTeam Brushless ESC, LRP X20 8.5T Brushless Motor and TrakPower 2S 5800mAh 90C 7.4v LiPo Battery. Time to mount it all up!
Build Notes:
The B5M allows the use of shorty- or brick-style LiPo batteries. I’m using a TrakPower brick pack, but if you decide to use any of the shorty LiPos on the market, AE has included a few foam spacers to help position the battery in the tray. You can also use these spacers to shift the battery front-to-back for weight distribution.
Here’s the gear that will be going into our B5M. Mucho modified power with a stout servo to keep it running straight.
Attach the servo mounts and steering arm to the servo (use the silver washers here even though the manual says ‘gold washers’). AE has provided us (FINALLY) with a solid drag link … no more fiddling with a lame setscrew. You’ll also notice that the servo mounts don’t extend to the bottom of the servo. Yup, new servo install design as well.
Feed the servo lead through the slot in the chassis and then drop the servo into place. You’ll see that it mounts from the top now instead of from underneath the chassis. Pop the drap link onto the steering bellcrank and you’re good to go!.
Slide the motor into the mount and secure with the M3x8mm screws (and washers). Attach your pinion gear (we’re using a 21T with the 8.5T motor) and set the gear mesh.
Attach the gear cover and slipper clutch cap.
Install the receiver and ESC into the chassis. Wire up your ESC wires and sensor wire. The B5M chassis has antenna mounting locations on both sides, allowing you to mount your receiver and ESC in a few different configurations. Peel and stick the battery foam pads onto the chassis and side rails as shown.
Slide your battery into place and attach the battery strap. Slide a red o-ring over the battery strap thumbwheel and attach. You can wire up your positive and negative battery terminals now as well.
Finally, attach the rear body mount pegs. After using these a few times, I may pull them off. The body sits so tight that it’s a little difficult to pull the body off. I may be using some Velcro in the near future.
Power up your transmitter and car and see if everything works. Off to the final completion steps.
Tony Phalen -
As an avid RC enthusiast, Tony has been building, bashing and racing RC Cars for over 30 years. He has participated in every kind of surface racing events - 1/18 scale trucks, 1/10 scale TC, Rock Racers, Rally - if it had wheels, he's raced it! He's also worked on both sides of the industry fence; collaborating with many major manufacturers (as well as being a sponsored driver) to working for a high-profile industry magazine. During this time he has learned many tricks, tips and techniques and is sharing that knowledge on CompetitionX - the most informative RC website on the internet!