Team Associated RC8.2 Build – Part 4 – Front Suspension

The Build – Part 4
The front suspension is pretty simple. You will want to make sure that all the moving parts move freely and aren’t bound up.

Build Notes:
This step will require quite a few of the parts to be direction-specific. Pay close attention to the manual and my build notes so you don’t attach any parts backwards.

The front suspension arms need a little tender loving to make sure you have full droop in the front end. Check the step below to fix this problem.

Open up Bag EE. This bag includes the FT parts for this step, including the aluminum steering knuckles, aluminum A-arm mount, lightweight aluminum stub axles and anti-roll bar.

Build the CVA’s per the instructions. Don’t forget to liberally lube the u-joint area.

Both CVAs/steering knuckles assemblies. When building, pay special attention to the direction of the knuckles.

Attach the knuckle to the caster block. NOTE: Pay EXTRA attention to the heights of the bushings and lengths of the screws. Short bushing/screw on top, long bushing screw on the bottom. Also note that the bushings key into the aluminum block. DO NOT FORCE!

Your left and right assembled steering blocks.

Remove the suspension arms from the parts trees. Remove any flashing that is still attached.

Team Tip: There is a slight interference issue with the suspension arm at the droop screw location. To make sure you have full droop, carefully slice off a little bit of the plastic as shown in the picture. Updated arms from AE are on the way.

Pop the anti-roll bar pivot balls into the plastic link.

Insert the droop screws into the suspension arms. I have blown up the screws so you can see which ones are the droop screws. They are different than any other screw in the kit.

Attach the steering blocks to the arms. Note the orientation of the arms and steering blocks.

Thanks once again, Team Associated, for building the upper turnbuckles. This saves alot of time and finger agony!

Attach the upper turnbuckles to the steering blocks. Don’t forget the chrome spacers. Again, not the orientation of the upper turnbuckle.

The aluminum A block. Push the hinge pin bushings into place. Make sure the direction of the bushings is the same on both sides.

Slide the hinge pins through arms and bulkhead. Attach the A-arm mount into place.

Close up of the A-arm mount in place.

Screw the set screws into the anti-roll bar mount. Screw them in until they’re flush. We’ll adjust later.

Attach the anti-roll bar and slide it through the pivot balls in the anti-roll bar link. Lock it into place with the set screws. Don’t forget your loctite.

Attach the anti-roll bar mount. Tighten the set screws until the anti-roll bar stops moving, then back them off slightly. You want as little movement as possible.

Next is to attach the front bulkhead to the chassis. Put a little black grease on the chassis as shown and set the gasket into place. The grease just keeps the gasket from moving.

Set the front bulkhead onto the chassis. slide the front bumper into place and lock everything down with the four screws. A quick tip it so cut the plastic at the holes so that the front bumper can be removed by loosening the front 2 screws instead of removing them.

Attach the upper turnbuckles to the shock tower. Makes sure the plastic cap is firmly pressed into place.

Attach the link to the steering block.

Part 5 – Assembling the rear bulkhead.
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