Team Associated TC6.1 Build – Step 1 – Shocks

The Build – Part 1
We are going to start the build with the shocks. Thankfully, Team Associated has done some updates to their shocks, making them much easier to build and maintain. This might also be a good time to review any setups you want to duplicate. Changing the oil and/or pistons can pretty much suck after you’ve built them.

Build Notes:
Shock oil can be pretty messy. Have a clean work area and some paper towels or rag handy in case you spill any.

A pair of calipers is suggested to help measure the length of the shocks. While not necessary, this step will help you build a perfectly balanced Touring Car.

It is also suggested that you find some sort of shock stand to help with building your shocks. You can always build a makeshift one from a piece of scrap cardboard.

To start off, remove all of the shocks parts from the package and group them together on your clean pit space. This will make it easy to grab the parts you need when you need them.

The manual instructs you to insert the o-ring into the threaded collar in a later step. I did follow the manual but, after wrestling with the shock oil and oily parts, this became an almost impossible feat. Even after washing the parts it was still quite a chore. My suggestion is that you do this upfront and avoid the ‘oily-finger’ syndrome.

Take the 4 shock bodies and slide the larger, black o-ring over the bottom part as shown in the picture.

Insert the piston bushing into the piston, flange side down. Slide that over the smaller threaded end of the shock shaft and secure with the small 2x4mm button head screw. A SMALL dab of loctite here will help keep the screw in place. Build 4 shafts.

Slide the shock shafts through the bodies, as shown. Apply a small drop of shock oil to the threaded part of the shock shaft and carefully slide the o-ring spacer, o-ring and hat bushing onto the shaft. Note the direction of the hat bushing. Slide all three pieces over the threades and seat into the bottom of the shock body. Slide the VCS3 shock bottom cap over the shaft and screw on to the bottom of the shock body. Be careful not to cross thread the cap. Firmly tighten into place.

Screw on the shock shaft eyelet onto all 4 shocks.

Using a set of calipers, measure the distance between the bottom of the shock (bottom shock cap) and the top of the eyelet as shown. It is suggested that you make all 4 the same.

Take one of your shocks and fill it to the top with shock oil. Push the shock shaft up and down SLOWLY to allow any air under the piston to escape. Once you’ve done this a few times, refill the shock to the top. My suggestion is to fill it until it is completely level with the top of the shock body. Set this shock aside in your pro shock stand or your janky (but useful) homemade, cardboard stand. Repeat this process with the other 3 shocks. We need to let the shocks ‘rest’ for a few moments to make sure all of the air bubbles can escape.

Ok, messy time! Take the first shock you added oil to and wrap it in a paper towel as shown. Fold the shock bladder in half and slowly place it on top of the open shock. The best procedure is to start on one side and ‘roll’ the bladder across the opening. This will force any extra oil out of the shock and onto the towel you wrapped around the it!

Place the shock VCS3 shock cap onto the bladder and slide the aluminum cap retainer over it. Slowly tighten down the cap retainer until it is finger tight. Be careful not to cross thread it. Move the shock shaft up and down to make sure you have full throw of the shaft.

If you added different weight oils to the front and rear shocks, it’s best to keep the separated at this point. Mixing them up would be bad.

Finally, thread the spring collor onto the shock, slide the spring in place and insert the lower spring retainer. Wah-lah…4 happy little shocks. Remember to keep them separated if you build a specific front and rear set.

Part 2 – Assembling the differentials.
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