The Build – Part 7
In this step we will be assembling the gearbox. The DEST210R allows you to build the gearbox in one of 4 configurations; Rear Motor 3-Gear (RM3), Rear Motor 4-Gear (RM4), Mid Motor 3-Gear (MM3) or Mid Motor 4-Gear(MM4). Each of these has it’s pros and cons, and you can read all about those here: Team Durango Motor Config, which I would suggest doing prior to starting this step. I chose to build it in the MM4 configuration not only because it seemed to be the style I wanted but more because it is completely different that any 3-gear, rear-motor setups I’ve ever driven.
Build Notes:
You will be using some of the grease labeled Gear Grease in this step. Don’t get it mixed up with the other green ‘Moly’ grease.
Pay close attention to the steps. Some of the instruction pages are for the RM3/RM4 build, others for the MM3/MM4 build. As mentioned above, this build is for the MM4. Your steps may vary.
You will need some threadlocker and CA glue for this step. Have it ready and make sure you have a clean, covered work space. Glue and mom’s kitchen table are not a good mix.
The first step is pretty tricky. Slide your assembled differential into the gearbox housing as shown. Tough, right? Do make sure, however, that the diff adjustment screw is facing towards you and not the the gearbox half. Press the 5×10 bearings into both of the idler gears. Slide the idler gear shafts into position (as shown), followed by a 5×8 gear shim. Slide your assembled idler gears into place followed by another 5×8 idler gear shim. Take the opposite-side gearbox case and start by pressing a 5×8 bearing into place. Align the flat spots and insert the top shaft into the layshaft gear. Smudge a bit of the gear grease onto the layshaft gear and drop the assembly into the bearing you just pressed into place in step 64. Combine the pair of gearbox halves together. Secure with the pair of scrwes. Don’t forget the washers. Slide the plastic motor mount spacer into place followed by the metal top shaft spacer and 5×11 bearing. Slide the 3 long screws through the case (don’t forget the shims). There are two different sizes here to make sure you get them in the correct holes. Does this step look familiar? It might, but this is an entirely different step; same idea though. Pre-compress the spring a few times. Take the top shaft screw and put a SMALL dab of CA glue in it. Quickly slide the pin into place before the glue dries. When I say small I mean SMALL! This pin needs to fit into a groove in the slipper plate and if you put to much glue it won’t. Slide the inner slipper plates onto the top shaft as shown. The inner one is the one without the writing on it. Slide the spur gear and slipper pads into place. Two pads go on the gear (one on each side) and are keyed into it. If they don’t stay, you can add a dab of black grease to keep them in place. Take the second slipper plate (the one WITH the writing on it) and slide it into place. Take you top shaft screw assembly (the piece you CA glued the pin into) and slide it all the way through the top shaft, making sure the gluee pin seats in the groove of the outer slipper plate. Using one hand to hold the slipper assembly tight against the motor mount, slide the shim-spring-shim-locknut pieces into place. Tighten the locknut down… …to about this point. There are no suggested settings so we’ll deal with this later. Attach your motor to the motor mount. Again, no suggested gearing settings to start with so you’ll either have to scour the web or test this on the track. Attach the gear cover. Notice there isn’t a hole for the slipper spring…AH! That’s because it sticks out of the other side of the gearbox. Pretty slick. Part 8 – Attaching the gearbox.
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